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Building a House in Kala Point, Port Townsend, WA

Building a House in Kala Point, Port Townsend, WA
A running narrative of first-time builders of their retirement home in Port Townsend, WA (NE corner of the Olympic Pennisula, 60 miles NW of Seattle). Follow us as this adventure unfolds in late 2008 and beyond. 18 months under construction, we moved in on May 25th, 2010. Photo taken August 15, 2010.

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Monday, January 4, 2010

Interior Doors (Day 425)

This weekend, Brian (my right-hand man now) and I took a whack at hanging the interior doors for the house. First chore was to figure out what door went where, but after some shuffling we got them in the right spots. A couple surprises though. One of exterior-type doors (air tight) for the staircase was hinged to open the wrong way (our fault, didn't catch it on the order) as well as the door to the upstairs bathroom. Seems like we went over this list a dozen times with Melissa at Carl's. Anyway, we'll use the exterior door at the top of the staircase, where we were waiting to see if we needed one (yes). For the bathroom door, we can order a frame only and still use the glass door. In addition, we still need a door for the basement utility room and a door for the mudroom coat closet, which I added at the expense of an overly large sauna just before drywall went in, and after our original door order (May). In addition, the master bedroom door came with a flawed door stop on the frame (one piece) so it has to be returned to Carls and reordered.

Anyway, Brian and I hung 6 doors on Saturday (one per hour) and another 4 on Sunday, which included two glass doors (pantry and guest bath). Hanging doors isn't rocket science (thank god), but you have to be careful to get them square and level so they look good and aren't self closers (ghost doors). Typically, we started by tack nailing the hinge jamb to the opening, then leveling it vertically with shims. Then we squared up the door by closing it and checking the reveal (space) between the door and the jambs (header and sides). If this looked good, we shimmed up the other jamb (non-hinge side), and shot a couple of 2" nails to secure it. Then we'd nail the jambs at the hinges with 12 penny (2.5" nails) and replace one of the screws on each hinge with a long square drive (3") screw that goes all the way into the framing, thus securing the door and allowing for some further adjustment (via the long screw). Finally, we'd nail off the non-hinge jamb, set all the nails and putty her up.

After all this was done, we removed the glass doors and stored them in a safe place. We're done with doors for now; still have to hang 6 more when we get all the right parts. After lunch, we knocked out the Hardi backer board for the upstairs bathroom. I had all the material, but wasn't anxious to get down on my hands and knees and screw this stuff down. So, I mixed and spread the cement and Brian did the screwing. More appropriate task for him—he isn't 40 yet and can still get up and down without too much groaning.

We got an unexpected call from our counter-top installer on Sunday am. I thought it was the Church pastor calling, but we got lucky instead. John Richert from Sequim called and said he had a job crater that was scheduled for next week and needed to find something to do for his guys in the shop on Monday. So since all the kitchen and master bath cabinets were set, he came over and measured for the counters. In the old days (like the 20th century), the fabricator would come over with thin strips of wood and a hot glue gun and make templates for the tops. Now days, they use a laser device that sits on the counter or island. After it gets leveled (automatically), the operator takes a stylus out of pivoting arm and pulls it to various points on the cabinet top. (For Tony, this is basically a variety of laser theodolite.) The machine measures all three dimensions (vertical, E, N) for each point, then creates a map of the counter top. Then you drop the sinks in their correct locations and map them out. In about an hour, John had the L-shaped perimeter counter top mapped out, then did the island with a tape measure (its a simple rectangle with 1.5" overhang), and moved into the bathroom. This counter top is a three piece job, so he did it the old way but used firm plastic strips (not wood) and an acetate super glue. Fast, clean, and permanent. He says they'll cut the slabs early this next week, and do the install later in the week. If all goes well, we'll have counters by Friday (Jan. 8th). Woosh.

Subcontractors and Suppliers

  • Balco Excav. (land clearing, Bill Snyder)
  • Bill McCutchen's Mill (cedar trim)
  • Blake Tile and Stone, Sequim (Judy Reno, Eldorado Stone, Tile)
  • Bob Brown Plumbing (Bob & Josh Brown)
  • Boise Cascade joists (from Carls)
  • Carl's Building Supply (Mike, Melissa, Michele, Terry & Lawrence)
  • Castlerock Landscaping (Tim Hamm, Sequim)
  • Cotton RediMix (concrete and gravel)
  • Craighead Electric (Gary Estes)
  • Custom Hearth (propane fireplaces), Pousbo
  • Daltile (Seattle, Wedi board)
  • Discount Cabinets of Washington (Sequim)
  • Discovery Bay Materials (gravel, top soil)
  • Earl Kong (professional forester, PT))
  • EcoHaus (Amer. Clay Plaster, cork flooring)
  • Ellis Construction (Gary and Troy Ellis, framing)
  • Evergreen Products (Drywall, Sequim)
  • Fergusons, Seattle (Plumbing fixtures, Bud Allen Wright)
  • FInlandia Saunas (Tigard, OR)
  • Fitzgerald Concrete (driveway, Mike Fitzgerald)
  • Four Corners Nursery (trees, Port Hadlock)
  • Frank Feltes Custom Drywall and Painting (drywall and painting)
  • Frank Ward and Wayne Jobst (Stone masons)
  • Fredricks Appliances (Redmond, all appliances)
  • Giraffe Gutters (Dan Shaw, Chimicum)
  • Glass Etchings by Perrett (Jerry Perrett)
  • Hadlock Building Supply (bits and pieces)
  • Hardiboard, siding, backer board (from Carls and Home Depot)
  • Henerys Hardware (Cabot stain, misc. fasteners)
  • Hi-Tech Electronics (Audio & Media, Port Angeles)
  • Hide-A-Hose (Joseph, A-B Vacuum, Puyallup, WA)
  • Home Depot (electrical & plumbing supplies, interior paint)
  • Home Storage Solutions (John Plake, PT)
  • Hope Roofing (Pabco Paramont Advantage shingles)
  • Jim's Tool Time (J. Quandt, misc. carpentry)
  • K&D Concrete (Don McNeese)
  • Kitchen and Bath Studio (Shelly Little, cabinets)
  • Levi's Energy Services LLC (radiant design, vents, propane piping)
  • Meta Marble and Granite (travertine), Seattle
  • Michaelangelo (sepentinite), Seattle
  • Mikael Brostrom (Structural Engineer)
  • Mills Interiors (wood flooring, some tile)
  • North Coast Electrical (Electrical Supplies)
  • Olympic Garage Doors (Sequim)
  • Penisula Flooring (carpet)
  • Penisula Shower and Mirror (Sequim)
  • PexSupply (online plumbing and radiant supplies)
  • Puget Sound Power (and Atelco installers)
  • Richard Berg Architects (Richard and Darlene)
  • Richard Gifford Construction (septic, dry wells and grading)
  • Richerts Marble and Granite (countertop fabricators)
  • Seattle Lighting (lighting fixtures)
  • Secret Gardens Nursery (Sheila Piccini)
  • Shine Quarry (basalt for landscaping)
  • Sierra Pacific Windows (Rob Sorg)
  • Simpson Doors (from Carls)
  • Simpson Strong Tie (fasteners & hold downs)
  • Stewart Excavating (Mark Stewart, foundation)
  • Sunshine Propane (propane and tank)
  • Therma-Tru Doors (from Carls)
  • Tracy's Insulation (batts and blow in)
  • Trex Decking (from Carls)
  • Trussworks (roof trusses, Carl's)
  • Velux (Skylights and Solar tubes, Carls)
  • Versalam beams (from Carls)
  • Warmboard (Bruce Hull)
  • Wisbo Aquipex, Taco Pumps, Polaris tank (Sunshine Propane)

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About Me

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Professional geologist (USGS, 1972-2008), amateur home remodeler and now builder. Interested in sailing, all things involving salt water, woodworking, and food in general. Owner of Paleo Seis Surveys LLC, consulting in Quaternary geology and geological hazards.